Repairing variety of raspberries Caramel: how to grow a good harvest

To get two full-fledged harvests from the Caramelka raspberry variety, gardeners need to work hard. Care consists in increased watering and feeding. In autumn, it is advisable to protect the ripening crop with a covering material. Due to two blooms per season, prevention should be chosen to fight diseases and pests and not abuse chemicals. The second crop does not ripen in all regions and not every year.

Description of the raspberry variety Caramel

Caramel - remontant raspberry. It got its name for its very sweet taste and pronounced aroma of forest raspberries. The variety was bred at the breeding station of Nizhny Novgorod, first appeared in retail in 2015. Many gardeners are familiar with the Nizhegorodets variety, but it receives skeptical reviews about the taste - the berries are not sweet enough. The breeders decided to correct the defect and created Caramel by crossing Nizhegorodets and super-sweet and aromatic donors. Variety tests were carried out in the middle lane.

Repaired varieties differ from ordinary ones in their ability to bear fruit not only on two-year-old, but also on annual shoots. Raspberries give two harvests a year: the first in the summer and the second in the fall.

Berry Caramel cone-shaped, elongated, large

Berry Caramel is not only tasty, but also beautiful - red, has the shape of an elongated cone. The maximum weight of one is 12 g, the average is 6 g, the yield of 1 bush is 5 kg. The pulp is juicy, the drupes are firmly connected, the raspberry lags well behind the stalk, transportable. The beginning of ripening falls on the end of July or the beginning of August, before frosts (September-October) Caramel manages to give 90% of the second harvest.

The caramel bush does not fall apart, the shoots are erect, fruitful

Caramel shoots are weakly spiked, erect, 1.5 m high, can be grown without trellises. The variety is suitable for both industrial and private cultivation. As a result of the active formation of shoots, a fruit wall is created already in the first year, the next year after planting, a commercial crop can be harvested.

Video: Caramel among other varieties of raspberries

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety - table

Benefits disadvantages
Productive, quickly pays for itself in industrial cultivationNew variety, seedlings are difficult to find, expensive
Raspberry sweet, aromatic, largeGives a lot of growth
Transportable berriesThe second crop often does not have time to ripen
The first harvest ripens in the year of planting, then gives two harvests per summer

Landing features

Timing and soil preparation

Caramel can be planted both in spring (from April to mid-May) and in autumn (after September 15). The culture is very tenacious, quickly assimilated in a new place and starts to grow. When planted in spring, the first berries will ripen in the same year. Traditionally, raspberries are grown along fences or walls, on the south side. That is, shelters are needed that protect the landings from the wind, but not from the sun. You can't get a good harvest in the shade, in spring the soil thaws there for a long time, in summer rainwater stagnates. As a result, the roots rot, the plants suffer from fungal diseases.

Raspberries in one place can grow for 10-12 years.

The plot for the raspberry tree is dug up and fertilized six months before the planting of seedlings: in the fall, if a spring planting is planned, and in the spring for autumn rooting. 2–3 buckets of compost or humus, 50–60 g of superphosphate and 30–40 g of potassium fertilizer are applied per 1 m². On heavy clay soils, 0.5 buckets of coarse-grained river sand are also added to fertilizers. Raspberries love air-permeable, loose soils, on which there is no waterlogging.

Video: Growing raspberries in the garden

Criteria for choosing plant seedlings

  • The height of the stem is 30 cm. Moreover, a thick stem is not an indicator of quality; in a raspberry seedling, the main thing is the root.
  • The root is fibrous, that is, with many thin roots. Saplings with thick and bare roots will take a long time to take root and grow slowly.
  • On the roots there are several buds of renewal or young shoots that have already begun to grow.

High-quality caramel seedlings have a fibrous root and rudiments of young shoots

Planting raspberry seedlings in a permanent place

  1. Before planting, treat the seedlings with a biostimulant and fungicide for rapid rooting and disease prevention. You can dust the roots with a dry mixture of Kornevin and Fitosporin (10: 1).
  2. In the prepared area, dig the landing holes on the shovel bayonet according to the scheme: 50 cm in a row and 1–1.5 m between rows. Rows of raspberries are oriented from south to north so that the aisles are well lit and warmed up by the sun.
  3. Lay out the seedlings in the pits, straighten the roots, which should not bend upward, twist, etc. For this, the planting pits deepen and expand, focusing on the size and location of the roots.
  4. If the soil was not fertilized in advance, you can prepare a fertile and loose mixture for each seedling: mix the garden soil removed from the hole with humus (1: 1), 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons of ash and a couple of handfuls of river sand.
  5. Cover the roots with soil, tamping slightly. Raspberries are planted to the same depth as they grew in the mother liquor, you can deepen it by 2-3 cm.
  6. Cut the stems to ground level or shorten them to 30 cm. They are only needed as a marking of plantings.
  7. Form holes under each bush and pour 2-3 liters of water.
  8. Fill the holes with dry soil, but so that there is a depression around the stems for watering.
  9. The plantings are watered once a week if there is no rain.

Spring planting of the mother liquor Caramel

With a shortage of planting material, large aerial raspberry shoots can be cut off, divided into cuttings, each dipped in Kornevin or another biostimulant and planted in a moist substrate

Video: How to plant raspberries, what seedlings should be

Caramel Care

Terms and rates of irrigation: table

Watering time Watering rate
In the budding phase20 l for 1 running. m
During the period of ovary growth
After the first harvest
At the beginning of the second budding
Charge watering in dry autumn (October)100 l per m²

In fact, the amount of watering depends on the weather conditions. If it rains, the soil is moistened to a depth of 35 cm, then watering is not necessary. There are two ways to "water" raspberries: by sprinkling and in furrows. The first method is convenient only for the gardener, and for the plant it is an extra contact of the crown with moisture, the creation of favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases, irregular watering, the risk of waterlogging of the soil. It is much more efficient and beneficial to water in the furrow. For this, grooves 10–15 cm deep are dug along the rows of raspberries, filled with water, allowed to soak and covered with dry soil.

It is possible to loosen the raspberry tree only in the aisles, since in the first year the space between the bushes in the rows will be filled with young growth. But you can free yourself from loosening and even from weeding if you mulch the soil with a thick layer of sawdust, hay, mowed grass, etc.

Furrows are made along the rows of raspberries. They are fertilized and watered, then the furrows are covered with dry soil.

Top dressing table

Terms of introductionHow to feedMethod and application rates
In early spring, through the melted snow, while there are still puddles15 g urea and a glass of ashscatter dry for 1 rm. m
In the spring, when the soil dries up (first loosening)25 ml Rost-Concentrate for 10 l of water1 bucket for 1 running. m
Budding period30 g nitroammophoskascatter on 1 rm. m and immediately spill with water
Second half of summer, after harvest30-40 g superphosphate and 30-40 g potassium fertilizerin dry form, distribute 1 rm. m and spill with water

To obtain two full-fledged harvests, Caramel needs to be well fertilized. Raspberries of the first year, if the soil was well filled before planting, do not feed. All subsequent years, plants need nutrients. Fans of organic farming can replace the mineral fertilizing of the first half of summer with infusions of bird droppings (1:20) or mullein (1:10), and after harvesting the summer harvest, water the bushes with infusion of grass with ash. In the fall, raspberries are mulched with humus.

Recipe for herbal infusion: fill a barrel with grass (mainly nettle), fill it with water, add 1 liter of ash to each bucket of water and leave for a week. For feeding, dilute 1 liter of infusion in 5 liters of water.

Video: How to get a large harvest of remontant raspberries

Cropping: how to get it right

Throughout the summer, shoots are removed that grow in the aisles (on paths), as well as excess shoots in the rows (thin, curved, rubbing against each other). When pruning, the shoots must not be pulled out of the ground or dug up; they must be carefully trimmed at the root (without hemp above the ground). In the fall, pruning is done in two ways.

Autumn pruning, if the second crop does not ripen, and it is planned to get only one - summer:

  1. Cut all shoots at the root, leaving no stumps.
  2. Burn off cut shoots and fallen leaves. So, the raspberry will be freed from pests and diseases that have accumulated over the season.

Autumn pruning, if you plan to get two crops:

  1. Cut out two-year-old shoots at ground level.
  2. Remove all weak, thin, crooked annual shoots.
  3. Cut off the tops of the remaining annual shoots, which already had berries.
  4. Collect fallen leaves, cut off shoots, tops and burn.

In the second method, you will also need spring, sanitary pruning, during which you need to remove all frozen and broken stems.

Shelter for the winter

If Caramel is cut off at the root in the fall, then it does not need shelter for the winter, since only the root system remains on the site, protected by a layer of soil and mulch. If annual shoots are left, then the preparation for the winter of the remontant variety does not differ from the preparation of the usual one. Before the onset of frost (until they become brittle), the shoots must be bent as close to the ground as possible so that in winter they are completely under the snow. The stems are tilted towards each other, pinned to the ground with metal brackets, pressed down with boards and bricks, tied together, etc.

Video: Preparing raspberries for winter

Possible diseases of Caramel: table

DiseaseSymptomsMethods of prevention and treatment
Gray rotThe most common strawberry disease also affects raspberries. The symptoms are especially pronounced on berries. First, they are covered with a brown expanding heel, then a gray coating appears. The development of the fungus is facilitated by high humidity and thickened plantings.
  • Dig up the aisles in autumn and spring.
  • Thin out the growth, weed out.
  • Do not grow strawberries next to raspberries.
  • In the spring, treat with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or Topaz (2 ml per 7 liters of water).
Purple spotPurple spots appear on the shoots, they grow, darken at the edges to a reddish-brown color. In the center of the spots, black dots are formed - pycnidia. The surface of the shoot is cracked, buds are not formed in these places.
  • Cut and burn all diseased shoots.
  • Treat three times a season with 1% Bordeaux liquid: when young shoots grow up to 10-15 cm, before and immediately after flowering.
  • Before flowering and after harvesting, spray with Hom (40 g per 10 l of water).
Late blightIn the spring, the buds do not open, the lateral shoots and shoots wither, the tops are bent in the form of a hook. Leaves turn yellow in summer. The bases of two-year-old shoots turn brown and crack. Nourishing roots die, and those preserved on the cut have a brown color.
  • In the spring, treat with a copper-containing preparation, for example, Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water)
  • It is imperative to add organic matter to the soil before planting, then every year in the form of mulch under the bushes.
  • During budding, spray with a growth stimulator Zircon, which increases resistance to fungal diseases (15 drops per 10 liters of water)
  • Cut and burn diseased bushes.
  • If more than 25% of raspberries are infected, cut and dig up all of it, burn the roots and shoots, sow siderates (calendula, rye, vetch, alfalfa) to improve the land.
  • Observe the crop rotation, the raspberries are returned to their original place not earlier than after 3-4 years.
Rolling the leavesThe most common ailment of remontant raspberries. Leaves curl from lack of moisture and nutrition. If the edges of the leaves are curled down, there is not enough potassium and boron. Also, twisting is one of the symptoms of the fungal disease anthracnose.
  • The soil in the raspberry tree should be moistened to a depth of 30–35 cm.
  • Add ash under Caramel with each feeding (1 glass per running meter).
  • At the beginning of summer, pour a boric acid solution on raspberries (0.2 g per 1 liter of water), 1 liter of solution is consumed per 1 m².
Anthracnose (leaf perforation)The leaves are covered with gray growing spots with a red rim, these places dry out and crumble, forming a hole. Leaves curl and dry out. The surface of the stems is cracked. Berries, not having time to ripen, are deformed and turn black.Treat with one of the preparations: Topaz (2 ml per 10 l of water), Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 l of water), Nitrafen (300 g of paste per 10 l of water), Zircon (15 drops per 10 l).

All fungal diseases develop in a humid environment, thickened plantings, on weak under-fed and under-watered plants. Caramel must be well maintained: do not overmoisten the crown, do not skip top dressing, weed out weeds, cut out excess growth.

Possible diseases in the photo

The most common pests: table

PestDescriptionHow to fight
Raspberry beetleA 4 mm long gray-brown beetle emerges from hibernation in mid-May. First, it feeds on weeds, then flies to raspberries, eats flowers, lays eggs on young leaves, flowers, ovaries. Larvae with a brown head and a light body climb into the berries, feed on the pulp and fruit.
  • In early spring and late autumn, loosen the soil in the raspberry bushes to destroy wintering sites.
  • Cut out the weeds.
  • During the flowering period, cover the raspberries with a fine-mesh cloth, for example, agril.
  • Early in the morning to shake off beetles on the spread material and destroy.
  • Do not throw wormy berries on the ground, but collect and destroy.
Strawberry-raspberry weevilA dark gray beetle with a long proboscis gnaws at the buds and lays eggs in them. The hatched larvae (white with yellow heads) eat the contents of the bud. In mid-July, they turn into beetles and move on to feed on leaves.
  • In the budding phase, treat with Iskra-M (5 ml per 5 l of water).
  • After harvesting, process with karbofos (60 g per 10 l).
AphidsSmall green insects live in groups, feed on the sap of leaves and young shoots. They attract ants, which carry them around the site. Aphids do not bring much visible harm to raspberries, but they are carriers of dangerous viral diseases.
  • Fight ants using adhesive tapes, Clean House gels; ruin anthills and pour boiling water over them, cover them with hot ash. Expand on ant paths: Thunder, Muravyin, etc.
  • Only after fighting ants, attract ladybirds to the site, for example, planting daisies, yarrow, tansy.
  • The simplest, but not harmless way: before flowering and after, treat with fufanon (10 ml per 10 l of water), Inta-Vir (1 tablet per 10 l), karbofos (60 g per 10 l).

Photo: raspberry pests

Harvesting Caramel

Raspberry harvesting is carried out as the harvest ripens. Ideally, every 2-3 days. Then the ripe berries will not overripe, crumble, and most importantly - take away the strength that is needed to increase the mass of the following berries. So that the second crop of Caramel has time to fully ripen, the bushes are covered with agrofibre and other blown covering materials.

The berries are harvested in dry and sunny weather. Shallow baskets, boxes, boxes, disposable plastic containers are used for storage and transportation. Raspberries are laid out in them in a thin layer so that they do not wrinkle under their own weight.Caramel has a universal purpose. It is good for fresh consumption, making aromatic jam, juice, compote. The berries are dried and frozen. After defrosting, Caramel keeps its shape, does not give juice. It can also be kept fresh in the refrigerator, but no more than 1-2 days.

Caramel berries are collected in small and shallow containers

Reviews of gardeners about raspberries Caramel

A big plus of Caramel is the harvest on annual shoots. When grown for only one crop, the entire raspberry root is cut and burnt in the fall. It is a very effective pest and disease control. To obtain two harvests, you will have to water and feed more often than ordinary raspberries, and in the fall, selective pruning and shelter for the winter is required.

This variety was created on the basis of two varieties: Kokinbrodskaya and Novost Kuzmina. Registered in the State Register in 2008.

Repaired raspberries are a group of varieties that bear fruit not only on biennial, but also on annual shoots.

The bush is powerful, from 1.6 to 1.9 m high. Lateral shoots, usually no more than 8 (two at each node), are omitted, this makes the plant look like a Christmas tree. There are few thorns and they are soft, the leaves are large, crossed by folds, dark green, with a carved edge. Little root growth is formed, so raspberries will not creep over the site.

The fruits of the Bryanskoe Divo variety are cone-shaped, dense, sweet

The berries are cone-shaped, the drupes are red, tight and do not crumble. Fruit sizes vary from 6 g to a record 11 g. The average cone length is 3 cm. The taste is closer to sweet, with an unobtrusive sourness.

The Bryansk miracle is sometimes mistakenly called the Bryansk miracle.

Tall bush of raspberries Bryansk miracle gives a bountiful harvest

Table: advantages and disadvantages of the variety

Evaluation criterionBenefits of the varietyDisadvantages of the variety
BushErect, high.In strong winds, the bush may fall, support is needed.
BerryLarge, dense, does not flow when picked, does not bake in the sun.With an excess of sun and a lack of watering, the fruits become smaller and change shape to round. With a lack of light, sugar content decreases.
AgrotechnicsGood survival rate of seedlings in most regions of Russia, early fruiting.The small number of shoots complicates the propagation of the plantation.
Pests and diseasesResistant to didimella, anthracnose. With proper care, pests do not appear.With high humidity, fungal diseases develop.
Climatic resistanceFrost resistant (down to –24 ° C).Moisture-loving, does not tolerate drought.
HarvestingGood transportability, implementation period up to five days.No flaws.

Landing features

The Brusvyana variety can be grown on almost any soil and in all climatic conditions, while the yield does not decrease.

Selection of seedlings

When choosing raspberry seedlings, you need to pay attention to the shoot and the root system. It is important that the future bush does not have traces of disease and decay.

Raspberry seedlings must be strong, with a developed root system

Seat selection

For landing, you should choose a flat, calm, well-lit place. Growing in the shade, the shoots will not bear fruit. Groundwater should not be located close to the ground. The bush will take root well on light and slightly acidic soil. The southern side of the site will contribute to the accumulation of heat, protection from cold winds. Accordingly, the plant will give the first harvest earlier, and you will have time to harvest the second before the onset of frost.

Boarding time

Raspberries are planted in early spring (April) and mid-autumn (October). If the seedlings grew in a nursery in a container, then planting can be carried out at any time of the year.

Preparing for landing

The repair variety has a more extensive root system that is located deep in the soil. This must be taken into account when digging land for planting. Dig up the soil as deep as possible, removing perennial weeds.

When planting, leave a distance of at least 90 cm between the bushes, 1.5 m between the rows.

Sapling planting process

It is recommended to plant seedlings at least 15–20 cm in length in the ground.

  1. Three weeks before planting, holes or trenches are prepared with a depth and width of 0.5 m.
  2. At the bottom of the pit, a fertile soil layer is laid out, mixed with 10-14 kg of compost or humus, 20-30 g of potassium sulfate and 10-15 g of superphosphate.
  3. A seedling is lowered into the hole, making sure that the root collar is at ground level.
  4. Sprinkle the plant with soil in 3-4 steps, evenly distributing the soil between the roots.
  5. Between the powder, the seedling is watered so that the earth better covers the roots.
  6. If the root system is open, the shoot is cut to the ground, and if the seedling is in the container, then it is left.
  7. The planted plants are watered at the rate of 5 liters of water per seedling.
  8. Autumn planting involves mulching the soil with a layer of 5–7 cm with rotted leaves or sawdust from deciduous trees.

By the end of the first year, the seedling can already bear fruit.

When planting, a large deepening should not be allowed, as this leads to slow development or death of the plant.

Raspberry care

Repaired Polka is advantageous to grow in a one-year cycle, that is, with mowing of all shoots before winter. It has been proven that leaving the fruiting annual shoots for the next year to receive the first wave of berries from them leads to a decrease in the overall yield.

Top dressing

Polka is a variety of intensive growth, therefore, in order to get tasty and sweet berries, it needs to be provided with good nutrition.

  • The first nitrogen fertilization should be carried out in early spring, immediately after the snow melts - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ammonium nitrate per 1m 2.
  • At the beginning of flowering raspberries and when the ovaries begin to form, Polka is fed with a solution: 3 tbsp. tablespoons of ammonium nitrate and a glass of ash on a bucket of water. The bucket is poured out per square meter of planting.
  • Since the fourth year, complex mineral fertilizers have been introduced into Polka's "diet" in the second half of the summer.
  • Annual fall humus mulching also provides raspberries with essential nutrients.

Top dressing is done only in cloudy weather at the same time as watering!

Watering and loosening

Polka is a moisture-loving variety, so it needs regular watering, especially during dry periods. One bucket per week is enough for a bush, except for the time of the beginning of flowering and mass setting of berries, at which time the watering rate is doubled. Naturally, watering is reduced or completely stopped in rainy weather. For better water penetration into the soil, it is recommended to make grooves 10 cm deep along the trench; for the same purpose, instead of grooves, beads from the ground are organized. The next day after watering, the soil is lightly loosened to a depth of no more than 5–7 cm with weeds pruning.

Pruning, mulching, sheltering

In late autumn, one-year-old shoots of raspberries that have borne fruit are cut off at ground level and burned (if some of them are not used for breeding the variety). Places of cut bushes are mulched with humus, compost, peat with a layer of up to 10 cm. This, coupled with the snow cover, will protect the root system from severe freezing and give raspberry dressing in the spring.

Pruning is done at ground level

But in the spring, Polish farmers strongly recommend covering the plantings with light agrofibre with a density of 19-23 g / m2 after the snow cover melts. This operation kills two birds with one stone: the process of development of shoots is intensified and they are protected from recurrent spring frosts, Polka has insufficient frost resistance. After the shoots reach a height of 5–7 cm in cloudy weather, the agrofibre is removed.

It is not necessary to leave more than 7-9 replacement shoots on the bush - this will negatively affect the quality and quantity of berries, and the thickened bush will be more prone to fungal diseases. It is also necessary to regularly remove root suckers not used for propagation of the variety.

When the stems reach 80–100 cm in size, they can pinch the top, this is achieved by branching shoots and the appearance of additional fruit branches. The pinching is done before the raspberry begins to bloom.

Due to ambiguous opinions about the need for this operation, it is better to pinch only a few shoots and make a decision for the future based on the results of the experience.

By pinching, additional branching of the shoot is achieved

Landing features

A site for planting cherries Revna should be chosen, remembering that the tree loves abundant sunlight and the south side, and in lowlands with cold air and close groundwater it will feel bad. Suitable soil is loam and sandy loam soil. It is worth planting cherries in early to mid-April, when the temperature has already risen above 0 ° C, but before the buds swell. If a seedling with a closed root system is purchased, it can be planted at any time, but not in extreme heat.

Cherries need open spaces on the south side of the garden

Pollinators are jealously needed, otherwise the yield will fluctuate within 5% of the possible. The best role in pollination will be played by such varieties as Tyutchevka, Ovstuzhenka, Iput, Raditsa. The distance between trees must be at least 3 m.

When buying a seedling in a nursery, you need to make sure that the roots and trunk are intact and well developed.

Video: how to choose a cherry seedling

Step-by-step landing instructions

A seedling hole must be dug in advance

Mix the top layer of soil with 3 buckets of compost or humus, pour the mixture onto the bottom of the pit, forming a mound. You can add mineral fertilizers (especially if the soil is not very fertile) - 200 g of double superphosphate, 150 g of potassium sulfate.

At the bottom of the pit, you need to form a mound of fertilizers and the top layer of the earth

  • Put a support-stake (on the north side of the tree, at a distance of 10 cm).
  • Put a tree, spread the roots along the slopes of the mound. Consider that the root collar should rise 5 cm above the soil surface.
  • Sprinkle with earth up to half.

    The first watering is done when part of the pit is filled with earth.

  • Pour 10 liters of water.
  • Fill up the hole, compacting the soil a little.

    The earth is compacted a little so that there are no voids in the soil

  • Pour 1-2 more buckets of water.
  • Mulch with humus or peat.
  • Tie the seedling to the peg.

    Reviews of gardeners about planting Polan's raspberries and caring for them

    I am definitely in favor of Polan. I have been growing for about 7 years. The "workhorse" of my site. Minimum care, maximum impact. A variety for "lazy summer residents", but no one canceled the normalization and feeding. It grows in the sun, the sugar tastes a little less than that of summer, the soil is sandy loam, the ripening time in our zone is the 2nd decade of August until the end of October. At the end of September-October, the berries are already noticeably sour - so it's autumn in the yard. Go to juice.


    We grow Polan, he likes the variety. It amazes with its growth force and yield It grows, like all remontants, in the open sun, watering as needed. The berry tastes good, juicy with aroma, and the sugar is normal. When selling seedlings, we carry out tasting. We offer berries and other varieties for tasting. But seeing the yield of Polana and having tasted the berries, no one refused to purchase seedlings.


    I first read about Polana at the Dacha Forum in the messages of Nedyalkov Stefan Fedorovich from Novopolotsk, Republic of Belarus. This year I planted 13 bushes, collected at least four buckets of berries (ten-liter). You need to plant at least 80 cm from each other, fruit twigs form almost from the ground. It doesn’t matter that it’s not very sweet. Sugar is indistinguishable from summer raspberries and the syrups are the same. It gives a lot of juice with a small amount of seeds. But he loves watering and humus. The main thing is that you do not need to bend down for the winter. Fruiting shoots should be cut in autumn or spring almost to the ground.


    But the advantage of Polana is the lack of shedding.


    Our remontant Polana begins to bear fruit only two weeks later than the summer one at a neighbor's.


    Gardeners are unanimous in their appreciation of Polan's raspberries. The advantages of this variety are obvious. The only drawback is the sourness of the berries. But it is quite possible to put up with it by adding the missing sugar to the plate. Polana is especially appreciated by gardeners who grow berries for sale. A rare combination of beauty, purity and aroma attracts buyers, and this berry will never go unsold.

  • Watch the video: How to Plant LOTS of Raspberries and Blackberries

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